Our State of the Union speech night dinner was a nice Niçoise, which is a really awful pun, since Niçoise basically means “Nice-style,” after the city on the French Riviera. I promise not to do it again.
Ditalini and I wanted a salad, and after Caesar and his sidekick Cobb, Niçoise is probably the best-known salad around, but one we couldn’t remember ever having before. I found an easy and not-too-Americanized recipe online and based my own Niçoise on that, with a few modifications. Apart from the vinaigrette dressing (true believers insist on olive oil alone, possibly with a little salt & pepper), I think Salade Niçoise purists would find my version acceptable, or at least not to be scorned. After all, I didn’t add corn. Or bacon. And don’t think I wasn’t tempted.
Crouton’s Salad Niçoise
- For the vinaigrette:
- 1/2 cup lemon juice
- 3/4 cup olive oil
- 1 medium shallot, minced
- 1 tsp thyme
- 1 tsp basil
- 1 tsp oregano
- 1 tsp Dijon mustard
- salt, pepper
- For the salad:
- 2 small tuna steaks (about 4 oz each), or 2 cans tuna
- 3-4 hard boiled eggs, peeled and quartered
- 6-8 small potatoes, scrubbed and quartered
- 1 head of Boston or butter lettuce
- 2 small Roma tomatoes, quartered lengthwise
- half a small red onion, sliced thin
- a handful of green beans
- 1/4 cup pitted Greek olives
- 1 can flat anchovy filets
- salt & pepper
Whisk vinaigrette ingredients in a small bowl, season with salt & pepper, set aside.
Boil the potatoes in salted water for 5-8 minutes until just done. Save the water, set the potatoes aside. Boil the green beans 3-5 minutes, then transfer them to a bowl of iced water to stop them from cooking any more.
Tuna: if using fresh, sear in a hot pan with a little olive oil, then cook until just done. Alternately you can use canned tuna, which doesn’t require cooking.
Pull the lettuce into bite-sized pieces, toss with vinaigrette until coated, arrange on a platter or individual dishes. Cut the potatoes in quarters, toss them in vinaigrette, arrange to one side of the lettuce. Toss the green beans in vinaigrette, arrange alongside the lettuce. Toss the tomatoes and onions in vinaigrette and arrange on top of the lettuce. Lay the flat anchovy strips on top of that. Toss the cooked tuna with vinaigrette and arrange the tuna on top (if using canned tuna, just drizzle a little vinaigrette over the tuna after putting it on top). Arrange the quartered eggs and olives along the sides of the platter or plates.
Serve with good crusty bread.
I was making salad for two. I had enough left over for a third serving.
I cooked the potatoes and green beans early. I think the potatoes are prettier if you leave the skin on. When I started assembling the salad, I had everything else cut up and ready to go.
It’s very easy to overcook tuna, so don’t get distracted. Some say it’s better to just use canned tuna. Some of my friends use fresh tuna but only sear the outside, preferring it raw. Your call.
The anchovy averse (you poor sad things, you) may use capers instead of anchovies.
You can hard-boil and peel your own eggs if you prefer, but I get them at Safeway, where they come in 2-packs and 6-packs.
Seriously, don’t use mayonnaise, or bacon, or corn. I’ll sic the Gendarmerie Nicois on you if you do!
Our friend Gusti C. Pollo introduced us to this cornbread at a party last month, and I begged for the recipe. She graciously shared it with me, and yesterday I made a batch to see if it was as good as I remembered. Oh yeah.
Ready for the oven
- 1 cup cornmeal
- 1 cup flour
- 1 tsp salt
- ¼ cup sugar
- 3 tsp baking powder
- ½ cup melted butter
- 1 egg
- 1 can creamed corn
- 1 tbsp finely chopped jalapeño peppers (or to taste)
- ¾ cup milk
- 1 can green chiles, chopped
- grated cheese (sharp cheddar or your choice)
Mix the first ten ingredients to make a batter. Pour half the batter into a flat baking pan or oven-proof casserole and spread it with a spatula until flat. Top with half the grated cheese and chiles. Pour a second layer of batter on top, spread it, and top with the remaining cheese and chiles. Bake at 400° for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Perfect with chili!
A purist would use fresh Hatch chiles, but I’m coming around to the canned ones. They taste great and are always perfectly skinned, with no black flakes from the scorching process. Your choice, though. When Gusti says one can of green chiles, she means a normal sized can. The one we had in our cupboard was a large one, which you can see in the top photo. I used five to six peppers from that can and saved the rest.
If you’re using a smaller baking pan or casserole you can split the batter into three layers. Gusti said not to grease the pan, but I sprayed ours lightly with Pam and was happy with the results. The cornbread was done in 40 minutes, so maybe cooking time is oven-dependent … at any rate, I’d give it a toothpick check at 40 minutes and adjust from there.
This cornbread goes perfectly with Crouton’s chili con carne!
The deMenthes always have seafood on Christmas Eve. Since we were visiting our son Baguette and his family in Las Vegas this year, and since our son had announced he was going to make clam chowder on Christmas Day, I decided to try my hand at bouillabaisse for Christmas Eve. This recipe is my version of one I found on the Food Network website.
- olive oil
- 2 carrots, julienned
- 1 bulb fresh fennel, julienned
- 1 leek, julienned
- 1 rib celery, julienned
- 1 sprig thyme
- 1 sprig rosemary
- 1 bay leaf
- 10 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
- 1 strip dried orange peel
- 2 cups dry white wine
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 1 quart clam juice
- 6 pinches saffron
- 1 lb clams
- 1 lb Chilean sea bass, cut into 1-inch cubes
- 1 lb large shrimp, peeled and veined
- 1 lb mussels
- small lobster tails
- 1 can tomatoes, seeded and chopped
- 2 egg yolks
- 2 tsp tomato paste
- 1 tsp fennel, chopped
- 4 cloves garlic, chopped
- 1 small dried chile pepper
- 1 pinch saffron
- 2 tsp olive oil
Heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in a large stockpot. Cook the carrots, fennel, leek, celery, thyme, rosemary, bay leaf, garlic, and orange peel for about 5 minutes, stirring. Add wine, tomato paste, fish stock, and saffron. Bring to a simmer and cook for 8 minutes.
Add the seafood in the following order: clams (cook for 1 minute), then the sea bass (cook another minute), then shrimp, mussels, and lobster tails. Add chopped tomatoes. Simmer for 8 minutes. When the clam shells are open and the shrimp is done, it’s ready.
Serve with garlic toast and rouille.
Put all ingredients (except olive oil) in a blender and whip at low speed until smooth. Slowly add the olive oil in a steady stream so that it comes out like mayonnaise. Serve in a small bowl.
More is not always better. When I went shopping for seafood I bought too many clams and too much shrimp. The broth was so full of seafood it was hard to get the ladle into it in order to dip, and we wound up crushing some of the chunks of sea bass. It would have been better, I now think, to have used just half a pound each of clams and shrimp.
We weren’t able to find mussels in the shell, but we did find shelled mussels, and they worked out fine.
The Food Network recipe calls for a bit of anise-flavored liqueur in both the bouillabaisse and rouille, but I left that out. The fennel has a strong anise flavor, and I figured that would be sufficient. It seemed to be.
We made peanut brittle from a Food Network recipe. The idea was for Ditalini to bring some to work, and to make small gift packages of what’s left. We’re not totally happy with the results of the recipe, though, so most if it will stay at home and get gradually consumed here. Too thick, not transparent, kind of crumbly, and way too sweet. But then again a lot of people like peanut brittle that way, so I’ll share three photos of its preparation:
They say much of cooking is chemistry, and you really begin to appreciate that when you’re making candy. At a certain temperature, the mixture of corn syrup and sugar changes, and you have to pay close attention to that candy thermometer.
When you pour the hot mixture into the buttered baking pan, it’s like working with molten lead. You have to be careful … and quick, because it cools and thickens rapidly. Just saying, in case you’ve a mind to try the linked recipe.
As I mentioned, I think we can do better. My sister sent a recipe my father adapted, and I’ll try that next. If it works, I’ll add it to the blog: Making Peanut Brittle, Take # 2.
Shoot, I just realized I need to add a Candy section to the recipe index. For now I’ll file this under Appetizers, and get around to that later.
Moroccan meatball soup
A friend posted a photo of this soup on Facebook. It looked good, so I asked her to post the recipe and last night cooked up a pot for Ditalini and me. It didn’t take long to make, maybe half an hour to get the meatballs ready, maybe 20 minutes for the rest. It was delicious. The cinnamon and sweet potato give it a flavor I hadn’t encountered before … different in a delightful way. This recipe will definitely become a regular on the deMenthe menu!
- 4 tsp vegetable oil
- 1 medium white onion, diced
- salt and pepper
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/2 tsp ground cumin
- 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1 1/2 lb lean ground beef
- 2 medium sweet potatoes, cut into thin half-moons
- 4 medium carrots, thinly sliced
- 3 tbsp tomato paste
- 7 cups chicken broth
- cilantro, chopped
Heat 2 tsp oil over medium in a pot. Cook onions until they become soft, season with salt & pepper. Add garlic, cumin, and cinnamon and mix well with a spatula. Transfer all to a mixing bowl and add beef. Using your hands, gently mix and shape into balls. Put meatballs on waxed paper until later.
I may have made my meatballs a little large
Add another 2 tsp oil to the pot and heat over medium-high. Add sweet potatoes and carrots and cook a few minutes, turning the potatoes and carrots over a few times. Add tomato paste and stir until the vegetables are coated, then add broth. Bring to a simmer and cook until the sweet potatoes start to become tender. Add meatballs and simmer until the meatballs are cooked through. Sprinkle with cilantro just before serving.
Cooking the sweet potatoes and carrots
This is a stand-alone soup, a one-dish meal. Some recipes for Moroccan meatball soup call for it to be served over couscous, and probably have less broth than this version. I love soup but am kind of meh when it comes to couscous, so I like it this way, with crusty bread on the side.
We were all here for Thanksgiving: Crouton & Ditalini, our son Baguette, daughter-in-law Truffle, and grandson Pesce, along with our daughter Escargot and her boyfriend. Underfoot, of course, were Mortadella & Ubriaco, along with Baguette’s dog. Our poor old cat spent the day hiding in a closet.
What a great feast we had! Relishes, turkey with stuffing, home-made cranberry dressing, gravy, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, green beans with those crunchy French onions on top, and sliced smoked pork shoulder. For desert our dear friends at Costco baked us a pumpkin pie, but Ditalini felt challenged and matched it with a home-made cherry pie of her own.
DeMenthes & guests, Thanksgiving 2013
I put the pork shoulder on the smoker at 7:30 AM; it reached 170°F at 2:30 PM, 7 hours total. Most pork shoulder smoker recipes call for an internal temperature of 190°F, but that’s only if you want to pull the pork: it’s well cooked at 170°F, and I had planned to serve it sliced anyway. Other than waiting for it to reach 190°F, which would have taken another couple of hours on the smoker, I used this recipe from a Weber Smoker site. If you use a Weber Bullet smoker, try this charcoal/wood technique: it’s what I used yesterday and it worked perfectly. By perfectly, I mean that I didn’t have to add charcoal once; every three hours I’d open the door and put in two or three fresh chunks of mesquite. Super easy. The lightly smoked pork, by the way, was an excellent accompaniment to the turkey.
Oh, before I forget, I did modify the mop I used while smoking the pork shoulder. The recipe I linked to above calls for equal measures of apple juice, vinegar, and vegetable oil; I used half and half cranberry juice and vinegar, leaving out the oil altogether. Pork shoulder is fat enough as it is! I was very happy with the result, too.
I can’t say much about Ditalini’s turkey, other than that she brined it this year, something we haven’t done before. She used a brining kit she bought at the same supermarket where she found the turkey. Very nice flavor, and the meat was moist.
There has to be one kitchen disaster in order for it to count as a home-cooked Thanksgiving meal. Fortunately our disaster was minor. As Ditalini and Truffle were putting everything on the serving table, Escargot discovered the stuffing sitting on the kitchen counter — prepared but somehow forgotten and thus uncooked. Everything went back in the lower oven to stay warm while Ditalini fired up the convection oven on top. The stuffing was done in 30 minutes and we were able to sit down and eat.
Here are a few food photos to make your mouth water. Click on the thumbnails to see ‘em bigger on Flickr.
Escargot doing KP
Mopping the pork shoulder
The groaning board
Ditalini makes this jambalaya from time to time, and it’s always good. It’s adapted from a Rachel Ray recipe; we call it “easy jambalaya.” The list of ingredients is long, but the dish itself is easy to prepare.
Jambalaya ingredients, ready to cook (oops, forgot the Tabasco)
- 1 cup rice
- 2 cups water
- 1 tbsp butter
- 1 lb boneless, skinned chicken, cut into bite sized pieces
- 3/4 lb andouille, skinned & sliced
- 1 lb large shrimp, peeled & deveined
- 1 med onion, chopped
- 2 stalks celery, chopped
- 1 green bell pepper, seeded & chopped
- bay leaf
- Tabasco sauce (or cayenne pepper)
- 2-3 tbsp flour
- 1 can diced tomatoes w/juice
- 1 can chicken stock
- 1 tsp cumin
- 2 tsp chili powder
- 1 tsp poultry seasoning
- 1 tsp Worchestershire sauce
- salt & pepper
- chopped scallions
- fresh thyme
Jambalaya in the pot, ready to serve
Cook rice in 2 cups salted water, leave covered when done. Add oil & butter to a large skillet or heavy pot, heat, and brown the chicken. Add sausage, cook two minutes more. Add onion, celery, bell pepper, bay leaf, and hot sauce or cayenne. Sauté meat & vegetables five minutes, sprinkle flour over all and cook another two minutes. Add tomatoes and juice and the chicken broth. Add the spices. Bring liquid to a low boil until the celery & bell pepper are almost cooked, then add the shrimp. Simmer until the shrimp are pink.
To serve, put a large scoop of rice in each bowl, ladle jambalaya around the rice, garnish with scallions and thyme, salt and pepper as desired, extra Tabasco sauce for those who like their jambalaya spicy.
Serving suggestion (with option!)
We went to a dinner at Poulet en Crote’s last night. Poulet prepared the main course while guests brought side dishes. Ditalini was responsible for bringing appetizers, and here they are:
L to R: deviled eggs, vegetable platter, stuffed cherry tomatoes, seasoned boiled shrimp, asparagus with prosciutto
There are hundreds of ways to make deviled eggs, and veggies with ranch dressing dip are so standard now you can buy prepared platters at any grocery store, but I wanted to go into a little detail on the three appetizers to the right.
Stuffed cherry tomatoes
Ditalini hollowed out the tomatoes with a small melon baller, then filled them with a mixture of cream cheese, ranch dressing, and chopped bacon.
Seasoned boiled shrimp
Boiled in water with a little vinegar and a tablespoon of Old Bay seasoning, then peeled, served with lemon and cocktail sauce.
Asperagus with prosciutto
Ditalini steamed the asparagus until tender, then marinated the spears in Italian dressing overnight in the fridge. Just before the party she wrapped a thin slice of prosciutto around each spear.
Speaking of dinner, here’s the rest:
Main dishes, L to R: green beans with sliced almonds, garlic mashed potatoes, corn pudding, prime rib roast, cheddar cheese muffins from Red Lobster (and some sliced sopressata salami)
Poulet made the corn pudding and roasted the prime rib; Moules Frites prepared the green beans; Ditalini made the garlic mashed potatoes; Bock Wurst brought the cheese muffins (and the sopressata as an addition to the appetizers).
This dinner, by the way, is an annual event. Poulet always hosts. Food preparation, as it was last night, is divvied up amongst the guests. The occasion is a confluence of late October and early November birthdays, namely mine, Pommes Frites’, and Osso Bucco’s.
Dinner with friends. What could be better than that?
Ditalini made another batch of chiles rellenos last night. I couldn’t remember if her recipe was on the blog, so I looked for it and couldn’t find it. No problem, my camera was handy and I started snapping photos, intending to add it this morning.
Ditalini’s chiles rellenos with Spanish rice and pork tamales
When I sat down at the iMac this morning I discovered the recipe was already up at Crouton’s Kitchen, along with photos I’d taken last time around. The reason I couldn’t find it last night was that it was buried in the Vegetables section of the Recipe Index. I realized this little blog needed a Mexican & Tex-Mex recipe section on the index.
So there you have it, and there’ll be more coming. Cooking … who knew it was so complicated?
Hasenpfeffer is also known as braised rabbit in spiced red wine sauce, but the literal translation is “peppered hare.”
We made this dish often when we were first married. That was more than 40 years ago, and rabbit was not as hard to find as it is today. We found some at a local butcher shop, but it came frozen from China, so we took a pass. About a week later, Ditalini found what we were looking for—cut up and frozen rabbit, raised in America—at a high-end grocery store, and we were in business.
- 1/2 lb bacon, chopped
- 1 5-6 lb fresh or defrosted frozen rabbit, cut in serving pieces
- 1/2 tsp salt
- 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
- 1/2 cup flour
- 1/2 cup finely chopped shallots (or substitute onion)
- 1/2 tsp finely chopped garlic
- 1 cup dry red wine
- 1 cup chicken stock
- 2 tbs brandy
- 1 tsp currant jelly
- 1 bay leaf
- 1/8 tsp dried rosemary
- 1/8 tsp dried thyme
- 2 tsp lemon juice
Hasenpfeffer cooking in the casserole
Cook bacon until crisp in a large heavy casserole. Remove the bacon and let it dry on paper towels. Put the casserole with the bacon fat aside.
Wash & dry the rabbit, sprinkle with salt & pepper, then dip the pieces in flour. Heat the bacon fat in the casserole on high, then brown the rabbit in the fat, a few pieces at a time. Transfer browned rabbit to a plate. Pour off all but 2 tbsps of bacon fat. Cook the garlic and shallots in the remaining fat. Pour in the wine and chicken stock and bring to a boil, stirring in any brown bits sticking to the casserole. Stir in the brandy, currant jelly, bay leaf, rosemary, and thyme, and return the rabbit and any juices on the plate to the casserole. Add the bacon, cover the casserole, and simmer over low heat for 1 1/2 hours.
Just before serving, remove the bay leaf and add the lemon juice. The sauce should be peppery; you can add more pepper if necessary. You can dip the rabbit and sauce out of the casserole or arrange the rabbit pieces on a platter and pour the sauce over them.
Note: if you have to use smaller pieces of rabbit they will cook faster, so check for tenderness after 1 hour. We were able to find a chopped-up 5-6 lb rabbit, as per the recipe, and we cooked ours the full 1 1/2 hours.
Hasenpfeffer on the plate (the sauce went well with the potatoes, too)